Un traje bien cortado se reconoce en cinco cent\u00edmetros, los que separan el pu\u00f1o de la camisa del pu\u00f1o del saco. El hombro es lo \u00fanico que un sastre no puede arreglar sin desarmar la prenda, si el hombro le queda, todo lo dem\u00e1s se ajusta, si le queda grande, devu\u00e9lvalo. El largo del saco debe cubrir el gl\u00fateo y terminar donde el pulgar se curva al dejar el brazo ca\u00eddo, la manga debe dejar ver un cent\u00edmetro y medio de camisa, el pantal\u00f3n rompe una sola vez sobre el zapato, o no rompe. Sobre la ocasi\u00f3n, el esmoquin pertenece a la noche, despu\u00e9s de las seis, y exige mo\u00f1o, camisa de plastr\u00f3n y faja o chaleco, el chaqu\u00e9 pertenece a la ma\u00f1ana, un traje de tres piezas sirve a cualquier hora y cualquier clima que no sea el de la bah\u00eda en agosto. Sobre la tela, lana fresca de 240 gramos para climas templados, lino o mezcla de lino y seda para Vallarta, sabiendo que el lino se arruga y que esa arruga es parte del dise\u00f1o, la lana tropical de peso bajo resuelve el calor sin renunciar a la ca\u00edda. Sobre el color, azul marino favorece a m\u00e1s hombres que el negro y fotograf\u00eda mejor bajo luz c\u00e1lida, el negro absoluto se traga los detalles en interiores oscuros, el gris perla pertenece al mediod\u00eda. M\u00e1ndelo a medida con doce semanas de anticipaci\u00f3n, tres pruebas y una regla final, el novio debe parecer una versi\u00f3n mejor de s\u00ed mismo, nunca disfrazada, si en la fotograf\u00eda de bienvenida el padrino no lo reconoce, algo sali\u00f3 mal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How to Choose? The Suit That Defines the Groom, The Groom's Suit<\/p>\n\n\n\n
A well tailored suit reveals itself within two inches, the space between the shirt cuff and the jacket sleeve. The shoulders are the one element a tailor cannot truly correct without rebuilding the garment. If the shoulders fit, everything else can be adjusted, if they do not, return the suit. The jacket should cover the seat and end where the thumb naturally curves with the arm relaxed, the sleeve should reveal about half an inch of shirt cuff, the trousers should break once over the shoe, or not at all. The occasion determines the formality. A tuxedo belongs to the evening, after six o'clock, and calls for a bow tie, formal shirt, and either a cummerbund or waistcoat. Morning dress belongs before noon. A three piece suit works beautifully at almost any hour, except perhaps during August on the shores of Banderas Bay. Fabric matters just as much, lightweight wool around eight ounces is ideal for temperate climates, linen or linen blended with silk performs beautifully in Puerto Vallarta, provided you accept that wrinkles are part of linen's character, lightweight tropical wool handles the heat while preserving a graceful drape. As for color, navy flatters more men than black and photographs better under warm light, true black tends to absorb detail in dim interiors, while pearl gray belongs to midday celebrations. Have the suit made at least twelve weeks in advance, allow for three fittings, and follow one final rule, the groom should look like the best version of himself, never like someone wearing a costume. If the best man does not recognize him in the welcome photograph, something has gone wrong. Everything else is left to the music, a poorly planned celebration in a spectacular venue is still a poor celebration, while a remarkable celebration in a modest setting becomes a memory people cherish for years.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Un traje bien cortado se reconoce en cinco cent\u00edmetros, los que separan el pu\u00f1o de la camisa del pu\u00f1o del […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":3344,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[20],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3342","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-voces-de-la-historia"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/seaviewmagazine.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3342","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/seaviewmagazine.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/seaviewmagazine.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/seaviewmagazine.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/6"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/seaviewmagazine.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3342"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/seaviewmagazine.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3342\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3346,"href":"https:\/\/seaviewmagazine.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3342\/revisions\/3346"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/seaviewmagazine.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3344"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/seaviewmagazine.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3342"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/seaviewmagazine.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3342"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/seaviewmagazine.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3342"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}